Archive for August, 2006

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Daehan minguk – an introduction – part two

August 17, 2006

Daehan minguk – part 2 – Japan looms large

I meant to get this entire introduction completed on August 15th, a key date in both Korean and world history. While it passes largely unnoticed these days in the USA (older readers no doubt remember it as VJ day), in Korea, August 15th is “National Liberation Day,” marking not just Japanese surrender to the Allies, but more intimately, the end of Japanese colonialism.

The identity of Daehan minguk, or in shorthand, Hanguk (pronounced like the ‘han’ in Han Solo from Star Wars, and guk – well, that sounds like the slur used against Asians, “gook”), is defined in many ways as much by the “other” as it is by the “self,” and thus, Japan holds a pre-eminent position in modern Korean history. Read the rest of this entry ?

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I’ll meet you by the Han Gang

August 17, 2006

Well, well, well…. I now know exactly where I’ll be living in Seoul, so, I’ll give a quick geographic rundown on the city and my new environs.

First, a word on Korean geographic divisions.

Unit Meaning Example
do province Gyeongi-do, Cheolla-do
gun county Hwasun-gun
si city Seoul teukbyeol (special) si (city)
ri village Nogun-ri
gu district Mapo-gu
dong neighborhood Seogyo-dong

The largest cities are administrated outside of the provinces, and are designated as special cities: Seoul, Busan, Daegu, Incheon, Gwangju (my old ‘hometown’), Daejeon, and Ulsan.

Here is Seoul proper, divided into its various gu:

seoul_map.jpg

My neighborhood, Seogyo-dong, is just to the southwest of city hall, in the district called Mapo-gu, right next to the long blue thing dissecting the yellow blob. That blue thing would be the Han gang (gang means “river”).

Seogyo-dong offers me some really great benefits and I’m quite excited to become one of its newest denizens.

For school: Seogyo-dong is located between the major universities of Seoul and right on the number 2 subway line. I’ll be doing most of my work at Seoul National University (SNU) which is just off the 2 line about 30 minutes away in Kwanak-gu. But also nearby are Yeonsei, Korea, Ewha, Seogang and Seon-gyungwan Universities – all with Professors and library facilities that will come in handy.

For play: Being smack dab in the university district, and especially Hongdae University – the main art school – means bohemia, or at least as bohemian as one is going to find in Seoul. Dance clubs, art/music performance spaces, coffee shops, and book stores abound. Moreover, there are all the other amenities young people crave – cheap food joints, gyms, and convenience stores. For me, however, the greatest amenity is the Han gang. While I can get by running on a treadmill at a health club, I would much prefer running outside. But Seoul is notorious for its crowds and pollution, so, this was a cause for some concern. Luckily, the banks of the Han gang provide oodles of space for long, car-free running trails so I’m only a half mile away from 20 miles of cool running (all marked, too – so I can time myself!)

Well, that’s enough geography for now. I’ll give you pictures when I start exploring for myself. For some of you, perhaps, you’ll be able to see it on your own!

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I’ll meet you by the Han Gang

August 17, 2006

Well, well, well…. I now know exactly where I’ll be living in Seoul, so, I’ll give a quick geographic rundown on the city and my new environs.

First, a word on Korean geographic divisions.

Unit Meaning Example
do province Gyeongi-do, Cheolla-do
gun county Hwasun-gun
si city Seoul teukbyeol (special) si (city)
ri village Nogun-ri
gu district Mapo-gu
dong neighborhood Seogyo-dong

The largest cities are administrated outside of the provinces, and are designated as special cities: Seoul, Busan, Daegu, Incheon, Gwangju (my old ‘hometown’), Daejeon, and Ulsan.

Here is Seoul proper, divided into its various gu:

seoul_map.jpg

My neighborhood, Seogyo-dong, is just to the southwest of city hall, in the district called Mapo-gu, right next to the long blue thing dissecting the yellow blob. That blue thing would be the Han gang (gang means “river”).

Seogyo-dong offers me some really great benefits and I’m quite excited to become one of its newest denizens.

For school: Seogyo-dong is located between the major universities of Seoul and right on the number 2 subway line. I’ll be doing most of my work at Seoul National University (SNU) which is just off the 2 line about 30 minutes away in Kwanak-gu. But also nearby are Yeonsei, Korea, Ewha, Seogang and Seon-gyungwan Universities – all with Professors and library facilities that will come in handy.

For play: Being smack dab in the university district, and especially Hongdae University – the main art school – means bohemia, or at least as bohemian as one is going to find in Seoul. Dance clubs, art/music performance spaces, coffee shops, and book stores abound. Moreover, there are all the other amenities young people crave – cheap food joints, gyms, and convenience stores. For me, however, the greatest amenity is the Han gang. While I can get by running on a treadmill at a health club, I would much prefer running outside. But Seoul is notorious for its crowds and pollution, so, this was a cause for some concern. Luckily, the banks of the Han gang provide oodles of space for long, car-free running trails so I’m only a half mile away from 20 miles of cool running (all marked, too – so I can time myself!)

Well, that’s enough geography for now. I’ll give you pictures when I start exploring for myself. For some of you, perhaps, you’ll be able to see it on your own!

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daehan minguk – an introduction – part one

August 16, 2006

Daehan minguk (Great Han republic), known in English as Korea, or more precisely, South Korea, is located to the immediate west of Japan, at the end of a small peninsula at the eastern end of the Asian continent. Though small geographically right now, being about the size of indiana or illinois, and only officially about 60 years old, both its population and its history give it a heft way beyond the weight of its meager land mass and shortlived reign.

Daehan minguk evolved from the Daehan jeguk (Great Han empire), barely known in English as anything, but more importantly from the dynasty before that, the Joseon era of the Yi (sometimes spelled Lee or Rhee – all different spellings of the character – (i hope you have chinese language capability on your computer. if not, just click on the gobbledy gook). the Yi family, whose surname is now the most popular in Korea, ruled the peninsula for 500 some years. that is a number that needs a bit of thought and reflection. The United States government is roughly 200 years old. Arguably the oldest date in American history 1492, is still a century later than the founding date of the dyanasty that ruled Korea until roughly 1900.

This looks like a statue of a Buddha, but it isn’t. It’s a statue of Taejo, Yi Songgye, the founder of the Joseon dynasty in 1392, but obviously influenced by Buddhist imagery. Yi was in fact a Buddhist, though he presided over a dynasty that systematically destroyed Buddhist influence in favor of what would become the strictest Confucian state in the world.

In 1392, General Yi Songgye was sent on a warpath to attack the Ming Dynasty. But instead of following his orders, the General turned his troops around and led a revolt against the 400 year old and dying Goryeo dynasty, founded by a member of the Wang family 王. Together the Joseon and Goryeo constitute almost a milenium of continuous history, representing one of the oldest state histories in the world. Add to that older histories of the Silla (in the south) and Balhae dynasties (in the north, up to and including Manchuria) from approx. 600 – 900 CE, along with the even older Baekje and Gogureo dynasties, 100 BCE – 600 CE, and it is clear that Korea has some extremely deep historical roots.

The Japanese and Chinese, while grand and certainly old, cannot match the level of centralization or longevity of reigns of the Koreans and many Koreans would argue, they are as such “newer” in terms of a nationalist sentiment. Obviously, there were neither “Koreans” “Chinese” or “Japanese” up until very recently, with the advent of the modern state system. But the idea of a single government and single people occupying a singular area in perpetuity, this proto-nationalism, was perhaps most possible specifically in the dense confines of the Korean peninsula.

Goguryeo horsemenThe Goguryeo centered around the central and northern part of the peninsula until the 7th century of the common era. With Buddhism as a state religion, they were instrumental in solidifying the religion’s influence in East Asia.

These 50,000,000 folks reside now mostly in Seoul, the Joseon capital for the past 500 or so years and the capital of South Korea. Nearly 20,000,000 people live in the Seoul environs, inluding the famous seaside city of Incheon, site of the landing of both MacArthur and now thousands of flights per year at its international airport, recently named one of the best in the world. They sit just a stone’s throw from the DMZ, some 20 or so miles away from a battery of artillery and tanks, all aimed in their direction and awaiting the directive to turn the city into a “sea of fire.” Oddly enough, I’d say that in some sense, this fact weighs heavier on the minds of American’s than it does South Koreans. That’s been my personal experience, at least. Obviously, the effects of any conflagration would be catastrophic first and foremost for Seoul (at least in the south, obviously Pyeongyang the northern capital would also feel quick pain).

But these days, at least according to opinion polls, the sense a North Korean threat is articulated far more in the U.S. than in South Korea. This is obviously a keen sticking point between the U.S. and Korea, and between individual Americans and Koreans. From the American standpoint, South Korea owes its very existence to the sacrifice and protective generosity of the US. Many South Koreans agree with this and show their appreciation clearly, in both their friendliness to Americans as well as their loyalty to the nation and its historical cause, both capitalist and Christian. Others are thankful but ready to move on to a more equal posturing, while the most radical are convinced of the ever-present ulterior motives of a world great power once again meddling in Korea’s internal affairs (following the Chinese, Japanese, and Russians). Overall, the majority of South Koreans want the US military to stay in Korea for the time being, to protect not only against North Korea, but to balance out the tension between China and Japan as well. South Korean’s are proud of their development into a true world power, creating the 10th largest economy in the world, towering 20 times larger than the North. But the sting of history and the immensity of the Chinese and Japanese are daunting.

to be continued. . .

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not quite ready to leave just yet

August 12, 2006

While not Korea related, the following are some images/videos I thought I’d drop of my last-minute labors to prepare for the trip.

This was our last mountain bike trip out to the Potawatomi Trail, one of the premier single track routes in the upper midwest. We had many long rides here, and not a few long trail runs as well, including a half-marathon in the driving late April snow!

Dominica pounding out a nice switchback climb (click on the images for video):

domini_uphill.jpg

and Matty racing by:

matty_biking.jpg

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Why do these girls look so unhappy?

August 7, 2006

Because they are watching this.

Just a few words on the topic. While Korea certainly sits at the top of list among targets for jokes about dog-eating, in fact, dog is eaten in many countries, including Switzerland. That this fact is very rarely acknowledged seems to be an indication that such jokes are definitely tinged with a rather racist connotation.

As a vegetarian, I’m located well outside of the common tit-for-tat debate between Westerners who decry the use of dogs for meat in Asia, and the Asians who decry the hypocrisy of Westerners who eat, among other things, cows, an animal considered sacred by some. The more nuanced argument focuses particularly on the inhumane methods of slaughter, the details of which I will leave to your own imagination (or google searching skills).

I obviously decry it all, but never to anyone’s face, unless they ask directly. Indeed, I do notice that Korean men who want to be macho (and even some of their expatriate macho male counterparts) and somewhat threatening will try to coax me into proclaiming my disgust at the “barbaric” practice of eating dog. The worst of these will take some sick pride in the how tough they are to not care one whit how the dogs are treated. Seeing the trap they set for me, I play right back and say “All you meat eaters are barbarians – cows, dogs, whatever – I don’t eat my friends and because of this, I’m much healthier than you and thus, you could never catch me” and then proceed to run away before Mr. Kim smacks me in my smart mouth.

Actually, not that many Koreans eat dogmeat, and many Koreans show active disdain for the practice. They reject the common argument that it is a traditional dish and note that the practice only began in the post-war years when meat was scarce, and then picked up in the 80’s when breeders saw a means to make a profit by highlighting the supposedly “potent” qualities of the dish – which was euphemistically labelled bosin-tang “invigorating soup” or yeongyang-tang “nutritious soup.” This use of euphemisms, uncommon among the normally straight forward descriptive terms for korean food (e.g. Kalbi-tang “rib soup”) seems to be pretty good evidence that this is indeed the product of modern marketing.

Another argument is that only dogs bred specifically for the purpose are used as meat. Again, my own experience seems to indicate otherwise. In my most recent trip to Korea, as I was running along a river bank, notable on the cement embankments were spray painted stenciled ads that said, “We buy dogs” followed by a personal cell phone number. Combine this with well know news accounts of stolen dogs as well as many personal stories related to me by my own past students who had their own pets cooked from beneath their noses by fathers eager to “make a man out of their boys” and I think this argument falls apart as well.

Nevertheless, it is impossible to deny that dog eating is part of the culture and something that at its most basic level should really be cause for neither pride nor shame. Unless Westerners are ready to bow to Hindu demands to give up beef, I don’t think they have a leg to stand on in this fight. Even vegetarians are rather biased to focus unduly on Korea when other nations eat higher levels of meat, albeit of other species. Still, I wish more Koreans would be more willing to address the hideous conditions of the conditions in which dogs are slaughtered, and thus I am very supportive of the actions of this perfomance troupe in the story I posted above. In other words, I think this is a problem best addressed amongst Koreans and that such debate is indeed taking place.

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already half gone

August 5, 2006

beam.JPGThree weeks from exactly right now, I’ll be sitting in O’Hare, waiting to get my 01 00 connection flight to Seoul, where I’ll arrive the next day at 05 00. I’ll have left Ann Arbor “for good” (one hopes, at least, not “for bad” right?) and be starting the final push of my life as a student.

I’m neither fan nor anti-fan of Star Trek. Nevertheless, one image from that program that imprinted deep within my consciousness was that of the half-there, half-gone traveler during the process of being “beamed”. In this precise moment, how would we answer the question, “Where are they?” As the ol’ horndog Clinton might say, depends on what the meaning of “is” “is”. When he said it, it was ridiculous, but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t some times when such speculation on the nature of our being isn’t readily apparent, even in our everyday speech.

Such a huge life event like moving half-way around the world (uh, actually only a quarter of the way) can’t help but weight heavily on the mind, filling the empty spaces with worry and excitement, so much so that at times I almost feel like I’m “not all there” or that I’m “somewhere else”.

Add to that the fact that all of my friends and family over there are already imagining my being there, making arrangements and setting plans in motion, it is as if half of me is fuzzily being invoked through the energy of their collective thoughts. So, here I post this first real post, marking not a hard boundary between here/there, now/then, home/away, but rather making the fuzziness of my life right now crystal clear. I’m half-here, already half-gone, and hopefully that might explain my sometimes slack-jawed inability to be paying full attention to the here and now.

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Taking advantage of the internets

August 4, 2006

This will be a blog for matty and dominica to share their lives while they are apart – from both one another as well as from all their family and friends.

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Taking advantage of the internets

August 3, 2006

This will be a blog for matty and dominica to share their lives while they are apart – from both one another as well as from all their family and friends.

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the other side of summer

August 3, 2006

And so it goes, another summer grows long in the tooth.

What would Elvis do?